Posted 11/19/2014
If there's one good thing to say about winter, it's that with
cold weather arriving it gets easier to make time for digging
into the new Fuselage kit! As I start assembling, there
are a few things that are clear to me.
1) There are a LOT of different parts to this kit. Unlike
the wings and tail, there are many many pieces and they are not
intuitive as to what they are as you look at them. I find
it takes a lot more time to just FIND the piece that you are
working on. That said, it isn't taking very long into
Section 26 before the crate gets fairly empty looking.
2) There is a LOT of deburring to do...much to the dismay of my
minion crew.
3) I'm definitely finding that you have to beware of what you
follow on the plans, unless you're a mindless drone who will
install the exact avionics package they design around.
4) There are some things ahead that the builder will definitely
need to modify and tweak...so when it comes to ordering the
finishing kit, you'll have to look at the parts list before
ordering.
5) There are some minor things that builders may run into with
the construction where you may want some extra hardware, such as
rivet callouts that may work better with other options.
For point #3, I'll give you an example. I, like most
everyone, installed the UAT cable in the tailcone. At this
point, however, we aren't even told what UAT they would intend
to use. So, will my cable work for what I plan to
do? I'm not so sure. Another example: In the
drilling and dimpling of the bottom center skin, they have you
drill a 9/16" hole. Now, they don't tell you WHAT this
hole is for, and without a complete wiring or finishing set of
plans, it's left up to your imagination. I believe that
this hole is for an antenna. But what kind of antenna is
it? So knowing when to ignore or delay items on the plans is
important, if you may be doing different avionics than they
plan. I just believe that some things are being over-prepared
for you. If you look at my previous
update, you'll see the issues I find with the panel.
Personally, I think they should have made the avionics wiring
package completely separate from the airframe wiring package and
made both packages optional, and offered just connector kits as
an option.
Regarding #4, here is one highly important item for me: Throttle
Quadrant. Van's apparently is not CURRENTLY planning
to offer a throttle quadrant option for the RV-14. Now this may
change, if every builder who wants one will email support@vansaircraft.com
and use a subject like "RV14 Throttle Quadrant Request"
or something like that. It most certainly would be nice if
they would design it in as an option, and I can tell you one
area where it will definitely affect their plans....the fuse
panel. Van's put a fuse panel above the tunnel in the
center below the panel. If you do a quadrant, you'll
likely have to change things around there too. No worries
for me, I think I'd want to change that a bit anyway...but be
prepared to modify things, and on the quadrant, if they don't
pull through for us, we're going to have to dig in and every
RV-14 will be a custom job I'm sure. Another area of
concern is the wire routing. As I build, I can see where
they plan to route the wires, but I'm not sure if the capacity
of the routes is going to be what I need or not. I guess
time will tell.
The cold weather got me motivated this year. I had some
roll-type double foil faced fairly high R-Value insulation
around that I was going to use on the old hangar door years
ago. After last year's harsh winter though, and the
~$4.50/gal price of kerosene causing high heating expenses, I
decided to use it in this garage. The ceiling is only 7'
high and I sealed the entire ceiling, making the heated space
probably 60% the size of the space I had been heating. The
low ceiling traps the rising heat, making the garage much faster
to heat up now. I also bought a new Pro-Tech 7035 battery
powered low level CO monitor to dedicate to this garage since I
took my old one to the hangar. It will only alarm at the
normal UL listed levels, but it allows you to hit the button and
see the current level. Not wanting to die of something as
dumb as CO poisoning, it was a good $70 investment. I do
find that with the smaller heated space, the heater kicks on
more often, but for shorter periods, which does actually
increase the CO levels. A torpedo heater running hot
doesn't make much CO. But when they are warming up, and
when they shut off, they do produce some. So I'm now
trying to change the way I heat the space...heating it up very
warm, then turning it down and working until it starts to get
chilly, and warming it back up hot again. That helps keep the CO
low and give the heater a longer run time, with less cycling.
Lets continue on inline with the photos...